The Bay Space has a number of eating places serving flavorful, smoky, deeply soulful Afghan delicacies. However the quantity doing really revolutionary issues are fewer than the 2 toes of a lamb’s hoof.
Jaji, which opened in January in downtown Oakland, goals to vary that. The husband-wife staff of Paul Iglesias and Sophia Akbar — who run the Michelin-recognized Parche close by – provide an formidable, inventive menu of upscale fare impressed by the standard dishes of Afghanistan and the spices of the Silk Street. Whereas Parche is an ode to Iglesias’ Colombian heritage, at Jaji, it’s Akbar behind the idea. She realized to prepare dinner early on from her Afghan-American household in Walnut Creek.
Most of the classics are right here, from mantu to a Godzilla-sized lamb shank to kabuli palaw, the fruit-and-nut-spiked pilaf typically cited because the nationwide dish of Afghanistan. However Iglesias is a tireless improviser, armed with an array of gastro-techniques, so count on the meals to yield twists and turns — Japanese substances like miso, for instance, herb-based taste oils and a painter’s strategy to plating.
The vibe: Jaji sits beneath the Kissel Uptown Oakland lodge, and a few of its world-trotting clientele appear to have filtered in. You’ll additionally see locals out for an evening downtown, clad of their finest sportswear, and quite a lot of {couples} on first dates. The ambiance is up to date, darkish and somewhat loud, with fashionable backlit cubicles and leather-based stools on the bar. The excessive ceilings are hung with gold-leaf varieties and lots of of vivid material flags, meant to recall Afghanistan’s well-known poppy fields.
The meals: The dinner menu is split into small bites, kabobs – which additionally change into small bites – large bites and dessert. Mama’s Daal is great to begin with and by no means just like the luscious and long-stewed goop scooped up at many eating places. Right here, rainbow lentils ($16) are served cool and al dente atop a creamy daal puree, with a vivid chutney French dressing tying every thing collectively. It’s a healthy-tasting snack that you may’t cease consuming.
One other good small chunk is the Sabzi Galet ($16), a play on slow-cooked Afghan spinach that right here is served on an open-faced pastry, topped with funky garrotxa cheese and delicate pea sprouts. Whereas the My Jigar ($21) is billed as a chicken-liver mousse dish – and it’s there, clean and scrumptious with pine nuts and ruby pomegranate seeds – it’s the Texas toast-sized housemade brioche that dominates.
The kabobs ($18-$30) come as wagyu steak with pomegranate-ginger syrup, floor lamb with yogurt and lemon zest and floor wagyu with sumac naan. They’re juicy and smoky and all fairly small, although you possibly can add a facet of bitter orange-saffron rice ($8).
Earlier than your monocle pops out on the worth of the mains, bear in mind that is by a lodge and priced accordingly. The Qarot and the Hen ($42) definitely delivers on portion dimension. It’s complete herbed Cornish hen (that may take as much as half-hour to prepare dinner) served on kabuli palaw with heirloom carrots and golden raisins and simply plain tasty and satisfying. The entire-fried trout ($72) is served butterflied with herb salad and candied orange, and the Noshaq Lamb Shank ($58) undoubtedly would have Shaq . It’s jiggly, succulent and humongous, trying like one thing a caveman would use to bonk a T-Rex.
The drinks: Jaji shares wines from California and Europe together with some orange varietals and zero-proof choices. There’s Ethiopian and Indian lager, and a cocktail record impressed by the spices of the Silk Street — assume turmeric, black tea and black pepper. The Fig-getaboutit ($32) is made with fig syrup and Dalmore Cigar Malt Reserve – it’s not made with tobacco, however meant to accompany it – and the Zira Gold ($15) is a well-balanced tipple of cumin, lime and Banhez mezcal. Observe that in order for you a particular drinks expertise, Jaji gives tastings-by-reservation in a “hidden” again bar referred to as the B.Akbar.
Particulars: Open 5-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday and 5-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday at 422 twenty fourth St., Oakland; jajioak.com.
