By KENYA HUNTER, Related Press
ATLANTA (AP) — Black ladies world wide collect in salons, dorm rooms and residing rooms for hours at a time to get artificial braids put of their hair. However they’re questioning if the comfort and trend advantages are being outweighed by potential well being hazards.
The query circulating on social media and within the Black group follows on the heels of a proposed federal rule — that’s nonetheless in limbo after a number of delays — to ban the carcinogen formaldehyde in hair-straightening chemical compounds.
There’s a skinny physique of analysis into the potential problems with utilizing artificial hair for braids. The most recent addition is an impartial examine from Client Stories into chemical compounds present in braiding merchandise. Some say the findings are regarding, however others are hesitant to make suggestions partially as a result of the methodology didn’t undergo a typical examine evaluation course of.
All the specialists who spoke with The Related Press did agree extra analysis is required into artificial braids and different merchandise Black ladies usually use in or on their hair. Right here’s a take a look at what’s recognized, what’s not recognized and what you may need to do within the meantime.
What’s recognized about artificial braids?
Consultants say it’s tough to attract conclusions from prior research. The Client Stories examine, which was printed in late February, stated there have been harmful chemical compounds like lead, benzene and different carcinogens in 10 of the most well-liked artificial braiding merchandise.
Whereas specialists stated the presence of the chemical compounds is regarding and complicated, they famous the examine didn’t undergo the rigorous scrutiny that it takes to get printed in a peer-reviewed science or medical journal.
Javon Ford, a beauty chemist who talks about his work on social media, questioned the report’s findings, saying “the data set is so limited.” Client Stories solely sampled two of every product, regardless of 1000’s available on the market.
James Rogers, the pinnacle of product security at Client Stories who led the examine, stated his hope was to get the data on the market due to the dearth of analysis. He famous that it was a pilot undertaking, however that “we thought the results were important enough to start the conversation.”
Analysis printed in 2020 within the journal Environmental Well being Insights confirmed artificial hair let off unstable natural compounds — chemical compounds that may simply evaporate into the air — when heated. Artificial hair is sealed when braided, both by burning it or dipping it in sizzling water. That examine detected lots of the identical chemical compounds named within the Client Stories examine, just like the recognized carcinogen benzene.
What isn’t recognized about artificial braids?
Consultants can’t reply whether or not the merchandise are actually protected — however that’s as a result of there’s so little analysis on the market.
There’s additionally little authorities oversight on the merchandise, which leaves producers to make sure that they’re protected. Client Stories is petitioning the Meals and Drug Administration to start regulating artificial braiding hair.
Jasmine McDonald, a professor of epidemiology at Columbia College who has studied the well being impacts of chemical hair straighteners, stated the Client Stories examine shouldn’t invoke worry however consciousness in regards to the potential harms of braiding hair, the dearth of federal laws and the minimal analysis.
“I think that in our culture, we sometimes normalize things to the point where we don’t see the harm … the more that we can raise awareness that some of these cultural routines could potentially provide harm is us having the potential to stop that harm,” McDonald stated.
What ought to I exploit on my hair?
Should you’re involved about utilizing artificial braiding hair or straightening chemical compounds, there are different hairstyles to strive.
You should use Brazilian wool hair as an alternative of artificial hair, stated Gloria Okpurukre, who owns Anointed Fingers braiding salon in Fayetteville, Georgia. You may as well braid your actual hair, however don’t anticipate the identical outcomes.
“The purpose of adding the hair is for volume and length,” Okpurukre stated. “A lot of people, their hair starts thinning out and they need to add something to make it look nice.”
Some artificial manufacturers use banana fiber to create the hair, which corporations say are much less irritating to the scalp. However Ford stated you received’t essentially keep away from chemical compounds simply since you change manufacturers.
Raven Baxter, a molecular biologist who has talked about braiding hair on social media, opted to cease utilizing artificial braiding merchandise due to the lack of expertise — each on the packaging or in analysis research. Now, she makes use of single-ingredient merchandise in her hair care routine, like aloe vera gel and vegetable glycerin.
“A lot of the work that scientists do, we’re able to do it because a funder deemed it as important to support that research,” she stated, including, “until we have funders that value the things that we’re concerned about, we’re not necessarily going to get the research published that concerns us.”
McDonald instructed staying away from merchandise that include PFAS, parabens and different “forever chemicals.”
She additionally stated shoppers can decide what’s within the merchandise and their relative security by taking a look at on-line databases, just like the Breast Most cancers Prevention Companions’ Marketing campaign for Protected Cosmetics.
The Related Press Well being and Science Division receives assist from the Howard Hughes Medical Institute’s Science and Academic Media Group and the Robert Wooden Johnson Basis. The AP is solely liable for all content material.
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